Innovation, Inspiration & Education at the SCC Scientific Meeting

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists met in Los Angeles for the 78th Annual Scientific Meeting & Showcase, Dec. 11-13, 2024. The event allowed the Society to celebrate many of its longtime leaders and focus on the future of cosmetic chemistry. SCC Chair Tony O’Lenick welcomed attendees, noting that it was great to be back in Los Angeles. The annual scientific meeting will alternate between New York City and Los Angeles through at least 2027. 

In addition to dozens of technical presentations, the showcase featured 113 exhibitors and posters. 

The scientific program was developed by the Committee on Scientific Affairs (COSA), which is chaired by Caryn Weiss. Paul Lawrence is the vice chair. 

“The SCC continues to raise the bar in cosmetic science education. In addition to core topics like skin, hair and photoprotection, tracks this year included science communication, intimate care/sexual wellness and artificial intelligence,” said SCC CEO Erica L O’Grady, CAE.  “Our return to Los Angeles featured the quality speakers and presentations attendees have come to expect from the premiere cosmetic science education-focused event in North America.”

Attendance, 810, was about even with Los Angeles (808 in 2022) and New York City (829 in 2023). The number of exhibits climbed to 113—up from 97 in 2022 and 91 in 2023

“SCC78 featured the most diverse speaker lineup in the meeting’s history, highlighting our efforts to foster creativity, diversity, and inclusion in thought leadership,” said O’Grady.  “Showcasing these unique perspectives and experiences drives innovation in our industry and highlights the need to address consumer concerns and challenges across various racial, ethnic, gender and lifestyle categories.”

Users and Formulators

Underscoring the growing pull of influencers in the industry, the opening session was devoted to science communication. The keynote was delivered by Gloria Lu and Victoria Fu, creators of Chemist Confessions, a cosmetics line that includes exfoliators, cleansers and treatment formulas. In addition, Lu and Fu produce Chemist Confessions podcasts where they discuss skincare formulas and market trends and explain the science behind novel active ingredients and workhorse ingredients such as emollients and surfactants.

Lu and Fu were cubicle mates at L’Oréal before deciding to create a beauty brand that combined a transparency ethos with fun, quality formulations.

“With our diverse experience we wanted to share our journey in the world of sci-com and motivate you to give it a chance and see how it can benefit industry and STEM,” explained Fu. “We knew we could provide a unique perspective. As users, chemists and brand owners, we could be the bridge between the science and the consumer.”

But those three perspectives can, at times, be at odds with one another, which is why sci-com can be so valuable and challenging, according to Lu. That’s because good science takes time, but the beauty industry moves fast. It is difficult to be unbiased and social media doesn’t allow for nuances.

“Scientists want to be correct. They’re favorite response is, ‘Well, it depends,’” joked Lu. “And there are so many ‘experts’ on social media. But for every real expert there are 10 non-experts.”

Lu and Fu said the beauty social media space can be divided into five camps:

• Fear-mongering articles;
• Debunking pseudo scientists;
• Sharing industry initiatives;
• Skincare science relevant to the user; and
• Skincare science

“The comforting thing is that consumers are receptive to the right content,” said Lu. “Still, it’s a never-ending game of whack-a-mole (when it comes to emerging controversies).”

If the job is so difficult, why do they do it? Fu and Lu say they are on a mission.

“Headlines sow seeds of doubt. We want to prevent that from continuing to happen,” explained Fu. “The good thing is that beauty is reactive, it can change with an informed consumer.”

She noted that consumers have a desire to learn, and that marcom has been transformed.

“At one time, we were trying to get more than a cat sneeze of actives in formulas. Now, you see Eva Longoria telling consumers how to pronounce hyaluronic acid! Information motivates use.”

But it is difficult to keep up with market changes. Trendy ingredients debut on the market and thousands of products get launched before science can catch up to it. That codifies the rise and fall of CBD in the market.

Still, good science reigns. Lu recalled the time they worked with Sederma two years ago to promote the science behind peptides in general and Matrixyl in particular. 

“People actually liked that content. Consumers want to learn,” she concluded. “Go to them with honesty and integrity, and make it engaging and fun. Let’s not create the next CBD!”

Lu and Fu maintain there is mistrust between Big Beauty and consumers. Scicom is the way to build trust. 

“Consumers need assurance their products are safe and effective,” said Fu.

They noted that the general population’s mistrust in science grew between 2018 and 2023. Today, science is becoming devalued and with social media stronger than ever, that mistrust may continue to grow. The Chemist Confessions co-founders said every chemist can play a part in promoting good science by building community; sharing references; supporting good sci-commers; and partnering with sci-commers.

Quality of Life

They may be biased, but SCC attendees insist the beauty industry is much more than a pretty face.

“Our industry is improving the quality of consumers’ health and life. We don’t communicate that enough,” said Greg Hillebrand, former Amway and Procter & Gamble researcher and manager, and currently an associate professor at the University of Cincinnati. “It’s not beauty care, it’s healthcare!”

The quality of scientific program underscored Hillebrand’s assertion. Sessions were devoted to hair and scalp health, intimate care, skin health science, advanced photoprotection and skincare technology.

But before the scientific program got underway, Dr. Howard Murad MD, founder of Murad LLC, delivered the frontier of science keynote. Murad is well-known for his eponymous skincare brand, as well as his assertion that cellular water loss plays a key role in aging. He noted that cells are at their healthiest when people are young. The first question that he asks his patients is, “Who are you at your core?

“Children are not afraid to fail, they don’t judge themselves or others. It makes them healthier,” he asserted.

Murad recommends eating water-rich foods, such as fruits and vegetables, and exercising on a regular basis. He likened cellular hydration to car tires that wear down. Potholes can damage tires, and if not replaced, ultimately damage the entire vehicle. Tires need air, and cells need water.

“Intracellular water loss correlates with age and deteriorating health,” Murad insisted.

He told the audience that cell membranes can be strengthened via:

Osmolytes. Agents with osmotic pressure encourage water into cells, instead of staying outside cells. Taurine is an osmolyte. 

Aquaporins. These proteins form pump systems to bring water into cells when needed.

Lecithin and other agents that strengthen the cell membrane.

Cultural Stress

Murad blamed a sedentary lifestyle for an increase in cultural stress. Social media, on-demand entertainment, search engines and home deliveries are some modern causes of isolation and anxiety. 

“Around 2000, I noticed, that more of my patients were complaining that they weren’t happy,” Murad recalled. 

To back that recollection, he pointed to results of a 2001 survey by Rutgers University and the University of Connecticut that found 90% of working adults were concerned that they didn’t spend enough time with their families. Devices were a major distraction. In the past two decades, that concern has only increased.

More than 20 years ago, he linked cellular hydration and cultural stress to chronic inflammation. This “inflammaging” induces cortisol production. Cortisol triggers the release of enzymes that break down collagen. Collagen breakdown contributes to cellular water loss and this process contributes to premature aging. Murad blamed inflammaging on many degenerative diseases, too, including cancers, cardiovascular disease, diabetes, Alzheimer’s, dementia and Parkinson’s. Murad insists stress impacts skin health as well. Specifically, he said cultural stress causes breakouts and wrinkles; graying hair and hair loss; dark circles, bags and puffiness; dryness and puffiness; and even autoimmune skin conditions like eczema. 

“(Too often) when we think of beauty, we ignore wellness. Without wellness, we can’t go forward. That day when everything went well, skin is body’s window on wellness. Dehydration is how it takes away. That’s my message,” he told Leslie Goodman, founder of Alchemy on Demand.

Going forward, Murad predicted cosmetic science breakthroughs will include healing topicals that better penetrate skin cells, speed skin repair, reverse hair loss and rebuild skin elasticity.

“They’ll even treat cancer and other diseases, bypassing the gut,” he insisted. “Cosmetics of the future may not only conceal wrinkles, sagging skin and hyperpigmentation, they may also correct them. At the same time, imagine that they soothe overstimulated nervous systems and restore a sense of vital well-being to their users.”

During the interview, Murad announced that the Long Island University School of Pharmacy will launch the Howard Murad Inclusive Wellness Program to integrate cosmetic science, beauty and wellness. The goal is to expand the role of pharmacists in delivering more comprehensive health and beauty care their patients.

“Don’t think out of the box. Understand that there is no box,” said the 85-year-old Murad, who created his eponymous company when he was in his 50s. “Each of us needs an opportunity to blossom and create something new. You can blossom at any age.”

DEI Builds Better Companies

Organizations can blossom, too. In the Henry Maso Keynote, Weiss and Lawrence conversed with Avantha Arachchi, cofounder and COO of A Frame Brands, a brand-building portfolio designed to address the needs of underrepresented groups that have been left out of retail and CPG industries. Some A Frame brands include John Legend’s New Love skincare line, Naomi Osaka’s Kinlo skincare and Gabrielle Union and Dwyane Wade’s Proudly babycare line.

After a burst of diversion, equity and inclusion (DEI) following the murder of George Floyd, the DEI movement has hit roadblocks. Walmart, for instance is canceling its DEI program. Arachchi said she’s not surprised, noting “if companies don’t follow up on their promises, DEI programs fade away.”

But data doesn’t lie. Arachchi noted that research proves that diverse teams are more successful.

“When people give up their promises, it actually gives innovators an edge over the companies that give up on their promises,” she added.

She likened diverse teams to Star Wars versus Star Trek. Star Wars is black and white, good versus evil. But the world doesn’t work that way. In contrast, Star Trek blends different races, cultures and skill sets all working together to get where they want to go. 

The demographics point to diversity, too. According to Arachchi, 50% of US children have a parent of color, and 60% of women are size 12 or larger. One in five consumers identify as LGBT+ and 60% of teens identify as LGBT+. 

“To be relevant, you have to service these diverse groups,” explained Arachchi. 

To promote diversity in the workplace, employees must feel psychologically safe. It enables them to have fruitful debate, she noted.

“At A Frame Brands, our superpower is conflict, but we have respectful conflict. We are comfortable enough to say ‘no,’ and even have heated debate,” said Arachchi. “Passion is good, but you shouldn’t feel attacked.”

For more coverage of the 78th Annual SCC Scientific Meeting, visit Happi.com